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In
This Issue:
Message
from Diana
Feature Article:
What Broadway Can Teach You About Good Fit
MESSAGE
FROM DIANA
Fall 2009
Fashion Week is in full swing in New York, and it's been interesting
reading the reviews from various fashion sites.
"Streamlined", "Timeless" and
"Budget-friendly" are often-repeated phrases. Big surprise!
The fashion industry has been hit HARD by this recession and
selective spending has forced designers to think in terms of
practicality and value in order to move merchandise: simple,
flattering silhouettes that withstand the test of time. Always a plus
for consumers!
Take a look
when you have a few minutes:
Style.com
FashionWireDaily.com
nymag.com/fashion/fashionshows/
So what's on
tap for today's article?
Well, after
chatting with fellow Delaware image consultant JoJami Tyler over a
cup of tea recently and telling her about an exchange I had with a
touring Broadway star, she howled and said, "You HAVE to share
that with your readers!" So I've decided to do just that - to
demonstrate the importance of good fit.
Enjoy!
Diana Pemberton-Sikes
FashionForRealWomen.com
Nail the
Dress Code EVERY Time
|
Weddings and
funerals and shows, oh my! What should you wear for the many
occasions in your life? Get it wrong, and you feel like a fool. Get
it right and you can enjoy yourself - and impress others with your
fashion savvy. From barbecues to the ballet, funerals to film
festivals, discover the simple way to determine "what to wear
when" in the pages of OCCASION MAGIC:
http://www.occasionmagic.com |
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FEATURE
ARTICLE
What
Broadway Can Teach You Good Fit
What, exactly,
is your definition of "good fit?"
Clothes that
you can get buttoned? That don't fall off? That are loose all over?
That are a certain size?
Personal
definitions differ for everyone.
But the
reality is that clothes that fit you well should follow the contours
of your body without binding, pinching, or constricting movement.
Long sleeves and hems should extend to wrists and ankles; darts for
bust, waist, and hips should hit YOUR bust, waist, and hips. In other
words, good fit - as Goldilocks discovered - are clothes that are
neither too big nor too small, but "just right."
Now
admittedly, that can be a BIG challenge, particularly if you tend to
buy things off the rack and you're not a standard size or shape.
Clothes that are mass produced cannot - by their very definition --
take individual needs into account. While some stores are trying to
address different body types (Gap's "long and lean" and
"curvy" jeans come to mind), you should just factor the
cost of tailoring into everything you buy. If you can't buy custom,
buy mass and have tailored. It's the only way to ensure good fit.
Why? Because
it can make a HUGE difference in how you look.
Let me give
you an example:
Here in
Northern Delaware, where New York is an hour and half by train, we
have LOTS of outstanding local talent. When I started dancing again a
few years ago, I was delightfully surprised by the caliber of
teachers in my studio, many of whom have toured nationally on cruise
ships, in musicals, and with ballet companies. One such teacher was
Jessica Latshaw, a beautiful, talented, down-to-earth girl in her
20's who would teach at the studio when she wasn't in a show.
This time last
year, she was in pre-production for the tour of "A Chorus
Line," in which she plays Kristine. In between teaching
pliés and tendus, she'd give us a glimpse into the rarified
world of the Broadway show, where only "the best of the
best" will do. She talked about the grueling auditions, the
arduous rehearsals, and the joy of custom-made shoes. She also told
us about her first day with the costumers.
"These
two little (gay) guys came at me with tape measurers and took a
THOUSAND measurements," she said. "They even had me take
off my bra so they could measure the distance from nipple to
nipple," she whispered with a blush. "Have you ever heard
of such a thing?"
I hadn't, but
when "A Chorus Line" hit Philadelphia a few months ago and
the News Journal wrote a "Local Girl Makes Good"
story on her, I took one look at the group photo and remembered that
conversation. It suddenly made sense:
http://www.delawareonline.com/article/20081216/ENTERTAINMENT08/812160305/1124
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Look at these
girls (Jessica is second from right). They're all wearing the same
costume, ranging in size from 2 to 8. Yet they're all SO physically
different that the only way each could look that good is through
personal attention. See the four different bustlines wearing that
vest? You don't get that kind of fit ordering out of a costume
catalog. You get it by submitting to the hands (and measurements) of
a master tailor. Dancing, leaping, kicking in a line - those costumes
will stay in place. That's what proper fit can do. (Ever have an
ill-fitting costume shift around on you on stage? I have. Not fun!
Adds way too much excitement to the performance!) |

"A Chorus
Line" Cast,
Courtesy of The
News Journal |
So do YOUR
clothes fit like that? Do they stay in place throughout the day as
you sit, stand, walk, bend, or stretch? Or do they ride up, slip
down, bind, or spin around? If you're forever tugging things back
into place, it's a red flag: what you're wearing doesn't fit.
So how can you
get proper fit?
Here are some
guidelines for what you should be looking for when you try on clothes:
Suit Jacket
or Blazer
-
It should lay
flat against your body with no gapping or puckering, particularly
when buttoned. If you can't get it buttoned, it doesn't fit.
-
The jacket
shoulder should be a ¼"-1/2" wider than your shirt or
blouse shoulder so it can accommodate that first layer.
-
The jacket
sleeve length should reach to the wristbone, allowing
¼"-1/2" of the shirt or blouse sleeve to peek out. Too
long a sleeve looks sloppy, too short looks ill-fitting.
-
The side seams
of the jacket should fall straight. |

Chadwicks.com
A properly
fitting jacket has the sleeve seam at the pivot bone and allows the
blouse sleeve to peek out a little |
Shirt or Blouse
-
The neckline
should hug the base of the neck without wrinkling, gapping, or making
you feel like you're being strangled.
-
The top of the
sleeve seam should sit at your pivot bone. (Where's the pivot bone?
If you put your left hand on your right shoulder and raise your right
arm straight out, the bone you feel moving is the pivot bone.)
-
The sleeve
length should reach ¼"-1/2" beyond the wristbone.
Pants
-
Pleats should
lay flat. Better yet, skip the pleats and opt for flat front, which
tends to be less bulky and more flattering on most women.
-
Side pockets
should not gap.
-
Crotch should
be a comfortable length whether you're sitting or standing. It should
not be close-cut and binding, nor loose-cut and hanging mid-way to
your knees.
-
Any creases
should fall straight.
-
For full
length pants, the hemline should hit the top of the shoe/midway down
the foot |

Chadwicks.com
Properly
fitting pants have a little room at the hips and allow creases to
fall straight. The hemline should hit at the top of the shoe/midway
down the foot. |
Skirts
-
As with pants,
there should be some "wiggle room" in your waist band.
-
The side seams
should fall straight.
-
Any pleats or
vents should lay flat.
-
The hemline
should be even and parallel to the floor - not riding up in front or back.
What are some
tell-tale signs that a garment doesn't fit well?
-
It's too tight
or too loose.
-
It's
uncomfortable to sit in.
-
It fits one
part of the body (like shoulders or hips), but not another (like
tummy or waist).
-
It rides up
during normal wear.
-
It restricts
regular movement like raising arms or bending knees.
-
It puckers or
strains at the widest part of your body, like the chest, belly, hips,
or thighs.
-
It's too short
or too long.
If you have
clothes in your closet that you've only worn once or twice because
they don't feel good when you wear them, chances are that they don't
fit correctly. Either have them altered, sell them, or give them
away. There's no sense keeping things that don't work.
What can you
do if you can't find clothes or brands that fit you well?
Otherwise,
keep a good list of the ready-to-wear apparel that fits you best.
Again, it may take time to build this list, particularly if you have
a hard-to-fit body. But it's worth it. Once you find the brands that
suit you best, you can return to them again and again to replenish
your wardrobe.
Good fitting
clothes are like a good set of skills: they take time to acquire. But
they will always make you look your best. So take the time. When you
look good and feel confident, there's no limit to where you can go -
maybe even to Broadway!
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Need some help
in determining your body shape and fitting needs so you can find the
silhouettes that suit you best? WARDROBE MAGIC can help:
http://www.wardrobemagic.com |
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**************
Until next time,
Diana Pemberton-Sikes
diana@fashionforrealwomen.com
FashionForRealWomen.com
AccessoryMagic.com
BusinessWearMagic.com
OccasionMagic.com
WardrobeMagic.com
TheClothingChronicles.com
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Published by:
Top Drawer
Publications, LLC
256 S. College Ave.
Newark, DE
19711 USA
Copyright
© 2009 by Diana Pemberton-Sikes All rights reserved. |