The Clothing Chronicles


In This Issue:

Message from Diana
Feature Article: What Broadway Can Teach You About Good Fit


MESSAGE FROM DIANA

Fall 2009 Fashion Week is in full swing in New York, and it's been interesting reading the reviews from various fashion sites. "Streamlined", "Timeless" and "Budget-friendly" are often-repeated phrases. Big surprise! The fashion industry has been hit HARD by this recession and selective spending has forced designers to think in terms of practicality and value in order to move merchandise: simple, flattering silhouettes that withstand the test of time. Always a plus for consumers!

Take a look when you have a few minutes:

Style.com
FashionWireDaily.com
nymag.com/fashion/fashionshows/

So what's on tap for today's article?

Well, after chatting with fellow Delaware image consultant JoJami Tyler over a cup of tea recently and telling her about an exchange I had with a touring Broadway star, she howled and said, "You HAVE to share that with your readers!" So I've decided to do just that - to demonstrate the importance of good fit.

Enjoy!

Diana Pemberton-Sikes
FashionForRealWomen.com


Nail the Dress Code EVERY Time

Weddings and funerals and shows, oh my! What should you wear for the many occasions in your life? Get it wrong, and you feel like a fool. Get it right and you can enjoy yourself - and impress others with your fashion savvy. From barbecues to the ballet, funerals to film festivals, discover the simple way to determine "what to wear when" in the pages of OCCASION MAGIC:

http://www.occasionmagic.com

Occasion Magic


FEATURE ARTICLE

What Broadway Can Teach You Good Fit

What, exactly, is your definition of "good fit?"

Clothes that you can get buttoned? That don't fall off? That are loose all over? That are a certain size?

Personal definitions differ for everyone.

But the reality is that clothes that fit you well should follow the contours of your body without binding, pinching, or constricting movement. Long sleeves and hems should extend to wrists and ankles; darts for bust, waist, and hips should hit YOUR bust, waist, and hips. In other words, good fit - as Goldilocks discovered - are clothes that are neither too big nor too small, but "just right."

Now admittedly, that can be a BIG challenge, particularly if you tend to buy things off the rack and you're not a standard size or shape. Clothes that are mass produced cannot - by their very definition -- take individual needs into account. While some stores are trying to address different body types (Gap's "long and lean" and "curvy" jeans come to mind), you should just factor the cost of tailoring into everything you buy. If you can't buy custom, buy mass and have tailored. It's the only way to ensure good fit.

Why? Because it can make a HUGE difference in how you look.

Let me give you an example:

Here in Northern Delaware, where New York is an hour and half by train, we have LOTS of outstanding local talent. When I started dancing again a few years ago, I was delightfully surprised by the caliber of teachers in my studio, many of whom have toured nationally on cruise ships, in musicals, and with ballet companies. One such teacher was Jessica Latshaw, a beautiful, talented, down-to-earth girl in her 20's who would teach at the studio when she wasn't in a show.

This time last year, she was in pre-production for the tour of "A Chorus Line," in which she plays Kristine. In between teaching pliés and tendus, she'd give us a glimpse into the rarified world of the Broadway show, where only "the best of the best" will do. She talked about the grueling auditions, the arduous rehearsals, and the joy of custom-made shoes. She also told us about her first day with the costumers.

"These two little (gay) guys came at me with tape measurers and took a THOUSAND measurements," she said. "They even had me take off my bra so they could measure the distance from nipple to nipple," she whispered with a blush. "Have you ever heard of such a thing?"

I hadn't, but when "A Chorus Line" hit Philadelphia a few months ago and the News Journal wrote a "Local Girl Makes Good" story on her, I took one look at the group photo and remembered that conversation. It suddenly made sense:

http://www.delawareonline.com/article/20081216/ENTERTAINMENT08/812160305/1124

Look at these girls (Jessica is second from right). They're all wearing the same costume, ranging in size from 2 to 8. Yet they're all SO physically different that the only way each could look that good is through personal attention. See the four different bustlines wearing that vest? You don't get that kind of fit ordering out of a costume catalog. You get it by submitting to the hands (and measurements) of a master tailor. Dancing, leaping, kicking in a line - those costumes will stay in place. That's what proper fit can do. (Ever have an ill-fitting costume shift around on you on stage? I have. Not fun! Adds way too much excitement to the performance!)

The touring cast of "A Chorus Line"
"A Chorus Line" Cast,
Courtesy of The News Journal

So do YOUR clothes fit like that? Do they stay in place throughout the day as you sit, stand, walk, bend, or stretch? Or do they ride up, slip down, bind, or spin around? If you're forever tugging things back into place, it's a red flag: what you're wearing doesn't fit.

So how can you get proper fit?

Here are some guidelines for what you should be looking for when you try on clothes:

Suit Jacket or Blazer

  • It should lay flat against your body with no gapping or puckering, particularly when buttoned. If you can't get it buttoned, it doesn't fit.

  • The jacket shoulder should be a ¼"-1/2" wider than your shirt or blouse shoulder so it can accommodate that first layer.

  • The jacket sleeve length should reach to the wristbone, allowing ¼"-1/2" of the shirt or blouse sleeve to peek out. Too long a sleeve looks sloppy, too short looks ill-fitting.

  • The side seams of the jacket should fall straight.

Properly fitting jacket
Chadwicks.com
A properly fitting jacket has the sleeve seam at the pivot bone and allows the blouse sleeve to peek out a little

Shirt or Blouse

  • The neckline should hug the base of the neck without wrinkling, gapping, or making you feel like you're being strangled.

  • The top of the sleeve seam should sit at your pivot bone. (Where's the pivot bone? If you put your left hand on your right shoulder and raise your right arm straight out, the bone you feel moving is the pivot bone.)

  • The sleeve length should reach ¼"-1/2" beyond the wristbone.

Pants

  • They should allow enough "wiggle room" in the waist band to slip in two fingers.

  • You should be able to pinch a little fabric at the fullest part of your hips.

  • Pleats should lay flat. Better yet, skip the pleats and opt for flat front, which tends to be less bulky and more flattering on most women.

  • Side pockets should not gap.

  • Crotch should be a comfortable length whether you're sitting or standing. It should not be close-cut and binding, nor loose-cut and hanging mid-way to your knees.

  • Any creases should fall straight.

  • For full length pants, the hemline should hit the top of the shoe/midway down the foot

Properly fitting pants
Chadwicks.com
Properly fitting pants have a little room at the hips and allow creases to fall straight. The hemline should hit at the top of the shoe/midway down the foot.

Skirts

  • As with pants, there should be some "wiggle room" in your waist band.

  • The side seams should fall straight.

  • Any pleats or vents should lay flat.

  • The hemline should be even and parallel to the floor - not riding up in front or back.

What are some tell-tale signs that a garment doesn't fit well?

  • It's too tight or too loose.

  • It's uncomfortable to sit in.

  • It fits one part of the body (like shoulders or hips), but not another (like tummy or waist).

  • It rides up during normal wear.

  • It restricts regular movement like raising arms or bending knees.

  • It puckers or strains at the widest part of your body, like the chest, belly, hips, or thighs.

  • It's too short or too long.

If you have clothes in your closet that you've only worn once or twice because they don't feel good when you wear them, chances are that they don't fit correctly. Either have them altered, sell them, or give them away. There's no sense keeping things that don't work.

What can you do if you can't find clothes or brands that fit you well?

Otherwise, keep a good list of the ready-to-wear apparel that fits you best. Again, it may take time to build this list, particularly if you have a hard-to-fit body. But it's worth it. Once you find the brands that suit you best, you can return to them again and again to replenish your wardrobe.

Good fitting clothes are like a good set of skills: they take time to acquire. But they will always make you look your best. So take the time. When you look good and feel confident, there's no limit to where you can go - maybe even to Broadway!

Need some help in determining your body shape and fitting needs so you can find the silhouettes that suit you best? WARDROBE MAGIC can help:

http://www.wardrobemagic.com

Wardrobe Magic

**************

Until next time,

Diana Pemberton-Sikes
diana@fashionforrealwomen.com

FashionForRealWomen.com
AccessoryMagic.com
BusinessWearMagic.com
OccasionMagic.com
WardrobeMagic.com
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Copyright © 2009 by Diana Pemberton-Sikes All rights reserved.

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